The setting sun and star gazing on Mauna Kea…life doesn’t get any better than this if you are an amateur astronomer. The Hawaiian sunsets are world famous and for good reason. The spectacle of watching the sun sink below the rolling waves of the south Pacific is something everyone should get to experience once in their lifetime. With a little luck and the right atmospheric conditions, you might even be able to catch a green flash. But the ocean-side seat doesn’t compare to the grandeur of being nearly fourteen thousand feet above that beach looking down at the setting sun from the summit of Mauna Kea. If you ever make the trek to the Big Island of Hawaii, you owe it to yourself to go to the summit and take in the show; it is a unique experience that you’ll never forget.

Getting to Mauna Kea is an adventure in itself. First of all, be sure to fill up your gas tank, there are not many gas stations once you get going, not to mention you’ll be traveling to a relatively remote part of the island. Be sure to bring along warm clothing, the temperature at the summit will be considerably colder than the beach. For example, yesterday (May 13th), the high at the summit was 45 degrees and the low was 33 degrees. Not exactly boarding shorts and flip flop weather! Also, bring along food and water. Do not drink alcohol at the summit. The high altitude, winding roads, and alcohol just do not mix. If you brought a camera or binoculars, by all means pack them for the trip. Obviously, a tripod is a necessity if you’re going to take any long-exposure images at night. I’d also recommend you bring along a flashlight as well, but if you do, find one with a red filter on it. Nothing will turn a bunch of astronomers and star gazers into a pack of rabid dogs quicker than a white light while they’re trying to work. If you’re a scuba diver, the same rules apply as flying; do not plan to go up the mountain within 24 hours of your last dive. One final comment before leaving, bring along a trash bag to dispose of your litter. The Mauna Kea summit is not only a pristine piece of Mother Nature but it is also sacred land to the Hawaiians. Don’t mess it up.

Now on to the journey. From the Kona side of the island, take Highway 190 heading North toward Waimea. Just before the 6 mile marker there is a turnoff on the right for Saddle Road (Hwy 200). This is the road that cuts across the middle of the island. It is narrow and winding so use caution and take your time, there are many blind corners and narrow passes. Driving on the Saddle Road also can void your rental car agreement so read your contract and go at your own peril. The road meanders along ranch land owned by the Parker Ranch which is one of the largest cattle ranches in the United States. You’ll also come across a military base in the middle of the island. Stay on the road as there is live ordinance in the fields. You’ll finally cross a large lava flow as you come to mile marker 28, the turn off to head up the mountain. Turn left and head up the Mauna Kea Access Road. From trip takes about one hour from Waimea, one and a half hours from Waikaloa, and about two hours from Kona. Be sure to time your departure to get to your final destination before the sun starts to dip below the clouds.

Once on the access road you can easily make your way to the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station (VIS) at about 9,200 feet. The VIS is Open from 9am until 10pm, 365 days a year. At the VIS there are informational panels, interactive displays, handouts, a video program, and the First Light Bookstore. The store contains many books about astronomy and Hawaiian culture. The store also has food for sale, and there are hot water containers and a microwave for your convenience. We highly recommend that you stop at the VIS to acclimatize to the altitude. Some people don’t do well at 9,000 feet above sea level and you’re going higher than that, to a place where there is 40% less oxygen than at sea level. Be certain you’re okay before proceeding.

Okay, now the hard part. First, going to the summit in pretty much any rental car you can find on the island will void your contract. Second, the drive to the summit really requires four-wheel drive. They purposely left the first 80% of the trip to the top unpaved to discourage tourists. The road is rocky with lots of twists and turns. You’re also driving in extremely oxygen poor air which internal combustion engines don’t like very well. Finally, you need to come back down the mountain. Probably in the dark. Possibly in the rain or snow with a good chance of strong cross winds buffeting you around. Before going past the VIS, you need to be absolutely certain that you, your car, your tires, and especially your brakes are in excellent working condition. If you or your vehicle are not in tip top shape, don’t risk it.

We’ll skip the details of the ride up, just be sure that you take your time and be courteous to other drivers (especially the astronomers and staff who might be making their way to the scopes for the evening). After driving on the rocky terrain for what will seem like an eternity you’ll think you’re seeing a mirage. The dirt road turns to a nicely paved road winding its way up to the telescopes above you.
Once at the summit, there are plenty of places to park. Find one that gives you the best seat in the house for the setting sun and the coming darkness. This is the Mecca of astronomy. Some of the best instruments will surround you including eleven observatories and a gathering of dishes that make up the Submillimeter Array. Unfortunately, unless you’ve got connections, you’ll have to admire them from the outside. The Keck Observatory and the University of Hawaii 2.2m telescope are the only facilities that offer any kind of tours. They each have visitor galleries from which the telescope may be viewed at certain times. The Keck gallery is generally open 10am - 4pm Monday through Friday, while the University of Hawaii 2.2m is usually open 9.30am - 3.30pm Monday through Thursday.

As the sun goes down, the show truly begins. Be prepared to view the heavens like never before. Mauna Kea is unique as an astronomical observing site. The atmosphere above the mountain is extremely dry -- which is important in measuring infrared and submillimeter radiation from celestial sources - and cloud-free, so that the proportion of clear nights is among the highest in the world. The exceptional stability of the atmosphere above Mauna Kea permits more detailed studies than are possible elsewhere, while its distance from city lights and a strong island-wide lighting ordinance ensure an extremely dark sky, allowing observation of the faintest galaxies that lie at the very edge of the observable Universe. A tropical inversion cloud layer about 600 meters (2,000 ft) thick, well below the summit, isolates the upper atmosphere from the lower moist maritime air and ensures that the summit skies are pure, dry, and free from atmospheric pollutants. You’ll be above 40% of the Earth’s atmosphere and the reward is clear skies with steady seeing. If you go on a moonless night when the Milky Way is in full view, which I certainly recommend, you’ll be astounded by the glow from the stars above.

When you’re ready to head back, keep in mind that you may be tired and your reflexes might be a little slowed from the lower oxygen levels. Take your time coming down the mountain and driving back on the Saddle Road. If you do just a little planning for your trip and drive safe, I have no doubt that you’ll always remember this once in a lifetime experience to the top of the world.